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“Body temperature” is the analogy often used to describe its ideal degree of warmth for nigiri. At Morihiro that means somewhere between the heat you feel on your wrist when you take your pulse and the warmest zone in the center of your chest. Until then, he’s using sweet koshihikari rice produced in the Ibaraki prefecture north of Tokyo. He polishes unhulled shipments daily at Morihiro, his tiny new sushi restaurant in Atwater Village.
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That we have in wondrous plenty, as these 21 restaurants — a top 10 and 11 additional standouts — attest. More than three hours after dinner began, I took one last sip of sake, exclaimed my thanks to Mori-san and his crew as they beamed back and finally staggered out of Morihiro. I gazed into the night — at El Buen Gusto restaurant across the street, at the Out of the Closet thrift store up the block and toward the mountains looming invisibly in the black distance. Four-course meals, served at one of the room’s seven tables, range from $65 to $100, depending on the amount of sushi. They include small appetizers — likely pickles, a square of homemade tofu and other daily whims — with miso soup and a small dessert.
Mori SushiArrow
East and West combined for unique and varied dining experience featuring the freshest and highest quality traditional sushi and sashimi. The diners will also experience our chef's top-notch special rolls, and from the love Japanese kitchen dishes as well prepared all under one house. Sitting in the middle of the action, facing the master, felt like dropping in on a workshop in full production mode. Stacks of ceramics on three rows of shelves behind him emphasized the impression; Onodera has been making his own earthy, elegant tableware for much of his career. He stood at the counter surrounded by sous chefs Lily Sugiyama and Yoko Hasebe and pastry chef Laura Ochikubo. Local neighbors and brave visitors of the Perelson mansion have shared their tales.
Echigo SushiArrow
Through grimy windows, one can see a 1950s-style television set, a Christmas tree, and supposedly, neatly-wrapped gifts. The furniture is covered in a thick layer of dust and the living room remains the exact same as it was that one December night. The current generation of omakase chefs in Los Angeles are returning to the essence of the cuisine. A trip to Tokyo confirms what’s been driving their pursuit for excellence. What remains an even larger mystery is why the current owner has left the scene of the crime almost exactly as it was in 1959. Though no one has been formally invited into the home, it is rumored that the mansion attracted trespassers for some time.
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In 1994, Rudy Enriquez inherited the house and, like his parents, neither stayed nor made any changes to the Perelson’s old decor. I watched and remembered how his hands have minds of their own. His eyes are taking in customers coming through the door, noting the pacing of his team, nodding to manager Tokiko Binkley as she pours a daiginjo sake with unmistakable banana notes. His fingers and palms keep working — forming nigiri, or molding rice and crinkling sheets of seaweed into rolls.
During service the milling machine sits like an art piece, shiny and silent, on a perch to the left of the six-seat sushi bar. MoRi House is a groovy sushi bar that appeal to all sushi lover with its ala carte to omakaze style dining and we also offer many varieties of Japanese sake and beer. With it's warm contemporary design and friendly services, your dining experience will linger long after you have left the restaurant. MoRi House has been established since 2003, MoRi House offers diners the chance to experience Japanese style cuisine.
Sushi Ginza Onodera
It was still delicious, and nothing could ruin the moment. Being able to once again eat it freshly cooked as intended, though, is utterly life-affirming. Every piece of nigiri shaped by Morihiro Onodera’s hands reminds me to appreciate the humbler beauty beneath the shiny overlay. We depend on ad revenue to craft and curate stories about the world’s hidden wonders. Consider supporting our work by becoming a member for as little as $5 a month.
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An extravagant omakase, an investment of appetite and funds, costs $250 per person at a table and starts at $350 per person in front of Onodera at the sushi bar. If that price makes you blink, or scowl, know that devotees keep the sushi bar seats booked for weeks out. (It’s the same, online sleuthing tells me, at first-rate sushi restaurants across L.A. charging similar amounts.) I slipped in on a Sunday night when there happened to be a cancellation. He returned to restaurant ownership in November, and as with many sushi restaurants he floated his business by selling elaborate takeout bentos and chirashi feasts before indoor dining resumed in the spring. During the pandemic’s hardest days, when memories reared up even when I wanted to squash them back down, I dreamed of Onodera’s sushi rice.
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Like us on Facebook to get the latest on the world's hidden wonders. Follow us on Twitter to get the latest on the world's hidden wonders. Rudy Enriquez, now a retired music manager, has refused to sell the property, though he has admitted to frequenting the site to feed his two cats who live there.
Former neighbors have even witnessed people having picnics in the backyard. One trespasser alleges that the house is haunted and that she was bitten by a black widow spider upon trying to break in. An alarm system has been installed and, to this day, remains one of the only changes made to the Perelson’s old home. A year after the gruesome murder-suicide, the mansion was sold to a couple, Emily and Julian Enriquez, who only used the 5,050-square-foot house as a storage site. Neighbors recall seeing the couple bringing boxes to the mansion, but never staying overnight.
The exterior of the mansion is in slow decay, and the local neighbors have had to pitch in to help maintain the property. For the next 50 years, the Los Feliz murder mansion would remain completely untouched and uninhabited by anyone. But I have been eating a lot of sushi lately, so I have many fresh opinions. While those of us with more room ate delicate mochi molded around matcha ice cream, Ochikubo pressed fresh taiyaki (fish-shaped waffles) for us to take home for breakfast. Often they’re filled with red bean paste; this night they oozed strawberry jam.
“Here is much better,” Onodera sighed across the sushi bar in Atwater Village, laughing and shaking his head. As the most discerning, up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel, Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse, offering both inspiration and vital intel. This is your guide to what the best sushi city in America has to offer, from the ultimate California roll to spectacular omakase. This is what fine dining in Los Angeles is all about, I thought. Walking to the car I pulled the taiyaki out of its takeout box and burned my tongue trying to eat it.
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